Mode d'emploi BERNINA 215

[. . . ] BERNINA 215 www. bernina. com ”Welcome to the BERNINA family” In choosing BERNINA, you are assured of years of rewarding sewing. For over 100 years my family has concentrated on providing complete satisfaction to our customers. And it is my personal wish to continue this tradition of offering you Swiss precision engineering combined with state of the art technology and an after sales service second to none. The new BERNINA 215 are characterized by a youthful appeal which is combined with a range of added value features to give you, dear Customer, more sewing pleasure than ever before. [. . . ] • the diagonal markings are useful for quilting • the vertical measurements correspond to the distance between the needle and the line • needle insertion point is position «0» (center needle position) • the measurements are marked to the right and left, measuring from the center needle position Note: To change the stitch plate see page 33 Feed-dog and fabric feed Button flush with housing = sewing position Feed-dog and stitch length With each stitch the feed-dog moves forward by one step. The length of this step is determined by the stitch length selected. With an extremely short stitch length, the steps are also short. The fabric moves under the foot quite slow­y, even at full sewing l speed. Buttonholes are sewn with a very short stitch length. Button depressed = feed-dog is lowered • for free-hand sewing or darning Setting up the sewing computer 19­­­­­­­ Thread tension A The basic setting • is indicated when the red line on the tension adjustment wheel is in line with the marking A • the tension does not need adjusting for normal sewing work • for special sewing work, the tension can be adjusted to suit the fabric The tension is factory set for the best results. Metrosene 100/2 (Arova Mettler, Switzerland) is used to set both the upper and lower thread tension. If other sewing or embroidery threads are used, the tension may need adjusting to suit the fabric and chosen stitch. • the Perfect stitch formation stitch formation is in the fabric For example: Tension approx. 2–4 Upper thread tension too tight • the lower thread is pulled more to the right side of the fabric • to reduce the upper thread tension turn tension adjustment wheel to 3–1 Upper thread tension too loose upper thread is pulled more to the wrong side of the fabric • to increase the upper thread tension turn tension adjustment wheel to 5–10 • the Metallic thread Monofilament ­­­­­­­20 Operating instructions Balance Your sewing computer has been tested and factory set using a double layer of cretonne fabric and Metrosene 100/2 threads (Arova Mettler, Switzerland). Different fabrics, threads and stabilizers can naturally affect the stitch balance so that they are sewn too close together or not close enough. This can be remedied with Balance to suit the fabric and produce perfect results. Honeycomb stitch on jersey, buttonholes, etc. Normal position Denser stitch formation (shorter stitch length) Finer stitch formation (longer stitch length) Note: If the balance has been adjusted, return it to the normal setting once sewing is completed. Operating instructions 21­­­­­­­ LCD Display 0 1 2 3 4 5 5. 5 1 5 4 3 2 3 5 6 4 1 7 2 0 The LCD display shows 1 stitch width, basic setting blinks constantly 2 stitch length, basic setting blinks constantly 3 needle position (9 positions) 4 needle stop up/down 5 stitch number 6 recommended foot for selected stitch 7 satin stitch; dense, short zig-zag stitch Altered Stitch Memory • any stitch length or width alterations will be saved automatically For example: • sew altered stitch, e. g. zig-zag • select another stitch, e. g. straight stitch • return to zig-zag, your alterations are still active Buttons Stitch selection • stitches 1–11: touch the number of your choice; stitch number and basic width and length settings appear on the LCD display Stitch width button = narrow the stitch width • right button = widen the stitch width • the basic settings of the chosen stitch blink constantly • left Needle position • left button = needle to the left • right button = needle to the right Stitch length • left button = shorten the stitch length • right button = increase the stitch length ­­­­­­­22 Operating instructions Functions Functions are . . . activated when the symbol appears on the LCD display. deactivated when the symbol no longer appears on the LCD display. Reverse sewing quick reverse: • press button • Sewing computer sews reverse until button is released (max. stitch length 3 mm) Applications: • programming buttonholes • programming darning program • manual securing (seam begin and end) continous reverse: • press button quickly twice • the sewing computer sews the chosen stitch in reverse • press button once to cancel 1/2 motor speed the button and the sewing speed will be halved • press the button again to revert to full speed • press Needle stop • basic setting needle stop up • press button • arrow points down = sewing computer stops with needle down • press button again • arrow points up = sewing computer stops with needle up Note: Press button a bit longer = the needle will go automatically up or down. clr/del (clear/delete) button = reverts to basic settings • other selected functions are cleared Exceptions: • needle stop down • 1/2 motor speed • when buttonhole is selected, the first step blinks on the display • press Stitch overview 23­­­­­­­ Stitch overview 1 Straight stitch All non-stretch fabrics. All Stitch work 2 Zig-zag stitch Most fabric types; all simple zig-zag such as oversewing fine fabrics. Sewing on elastic and lace 3 Running stitch Most types of fabric. Mending, patching, reinforcing seams 4 Triple straight and triple zig-zag stitch Reinforced seams in tough, heavy fabrics 5 Blind stitch Most types of fabric; blind hems, shell edging on soft jerseys and fine fabrics, decorative seams 6 Double overlock stitch All types of knit; Overlock = sew and neaten in one operation 7 Stretch overlock stitch Mediumweight knits, toweling and firm wovens. Overlock seams, flat joining seams 8 Super stretch stitch Open seam for all super-stretch fabrics 9 Honeycomb stitch Most types of interlock and smooth fabrics; visible seams and hems 10 Darning program Automatic darning for fine and medium weight fabrics 11 Buttonhole Fine to medium weight woven fabrics; blouses, shirts, trousers, bedlinens, etc. ­­­­­­­24 Selected practical stitches Straight stitch No. 2 A Fabric edges finished with zig-zag stitch B Zig-zag stitch with altered stitch length C Zig-zag stitch with altered stitch width Use reverse pattern sole No. [. . . ] • The hole in the stitch plate has been damaged by the needle. • The needle is blunt or bent. Upper thread breaks • The upper thread tension is too tight. • The needles are of a poor quality. Ideally needles should be purchased from your BERNINA dealer. [. . . ]