Mode d'emploi BROTHER FS100WT

[. . . ] Operation Manual Sewing Machine Product Code: 888-E30/E31/E37/E38/V61/V63/V65/V67 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX Be sure to read this document before using the machine. We recommend that you keep this document nearby for future reference. IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine. - To reduce the risk of electric shock: DANGER WARNING 1 Always unplug the machine from using, when the electrical outlet immediately after cleaning, when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the machine unattended. • While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat, discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine and immediately unplug the power cord. • When transporting the machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could cause injuries. [. . . ] ● When the size of cylindrical pieces is too small to slide onto the arm or the length is too short, the fabric will not feed and desired results may not be achieved. ■ Changing the needle position 30 20 stitches model 09 ● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries CAUTION You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project, like the hem of a pair of trousers, without the stitch showing. Pattern No. a Reverse the skirt or pants. e fabric with the wrong side facing up. a b c d e f Unfold the edge of fabric, and position the Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric Edge of fabric Desired edge of hem Basting point Basting 2 b Right side of fabric 1 c Edge of fabric 4 d Bottom side a Wrong side of fabric 4 1 1 1 6 1 1 3 3 b hem, and press. Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the a b c 4 d Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric Edge of fabric Desired edge of hem f <Thick fabric> g 5 2 <Thick fabric> <Normal fabric> 2 1 1 1 3 2 2 3 <Seen from the side> <Seen from the side> Attach blind hem foot “R”. Remove the flat bed attachment and make free• For details on free-arm sewing, refer to “Stitching cylindrical pieces” (page 28). 3 <Normal fabric> h arm sewing possible. c (3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric, and then Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about 5 mm baste it. i make sure that the fabric feeds correctly, and Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the arm, then start sewing. 3 5 6 1 1 1 2 2 a b c d 4 e f Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric Edge of fabric Desired edge of hem 5 mm (3/16 inch) Basting <Thick fabric> 2 a Arm <Normal fabric> j hem against the guide of the presser foot, and <Seen from the side> d Position the fabric with the edge of the folded then lower the presser foot lever. Fold back the fabric inside along the basting. 3 4 1 1 1 5 6 2 7 a b c d e f g Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric Edge of fabric Desired edge of hem 5 mm (3/16 inch) Basting Basting point <Thick fabric> <Normal fabric> a Wrong side of fabric b Fold of hem c Guide <Seen from the side> 31 UTILITY STITCHES k catches the fold of the hem. Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly <Normal fabric> a Needle drop point a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric When you change the needle drop point, raise the needle, and then change the stitch width. Stitch width • For details on changing the stitch width, refer to “Selecting a stitch” (page 24). l foot guide. Sew with the fold of the hem against the presser Remove the basting stitching and turn the fabric m right side up. a Thick fabric b Normal fabric ■ If the needle catches too much of the hem fold If the needle catches too much of the hem fold, adjust the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold by pressing the “+” side of the stitch width adjustment key. <Thick fabric> a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric BUTTONHOLE SEWING Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Pattern No. Presser Foot Pattern 80/90 stitches model 60/70 stitches model 100 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model 30 stitches model 21 22 23 Stitch Name 20 stitches model 16 17 18 - A 34 34 29 29 25 <Normal fabric> A 35 35 30 30 26 A 36 36 31 31 27 A 37 37 32 32 28 a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric ■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold If the needle does not catch the hem fold, adjust the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold by pressing the “-” side of the stitch width adjustment key. <Thick fabric> Buttonhole stitch A 38 38 - A 39 39 33 33 29 A 40 40 34 - - A 41 41 35 - - Zigzag stitch (for quilting) J 46 46 40 - - 32 may occur if the foot controller or (start/ stop button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/ 8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button). Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.  The size of the buttonhole is set. ■ If the button does not fit in the button guide plate Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch). ) A ● Be sure to turn off the main power before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries CAUTION b foot “A”, and then insert the button that will be Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole put through the buttonhole. 3 a Presser foot scale b Length of buttonhole (Diameter + thickness of button) c 5 mm (3/16 inch) a Reinforcement stitching ■ Part names of the buttonhole foot “A” A Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm (9/ 16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale. 4 a b c d e Button guide plate Presser foot scale Pin Marks on buttonhole foot 5 mm (3/16 inch) 5 c d d 10 mm (3/8 inch) e 15 mm (9/16 inch) Attach buttonhole foot “A”. Pass the upper thread down through the hole in Use chalk to mark the position and length of the a buttonhole on the fabric. e the presser foot. a Marks on fabric b Buttonhole sewing 33 UTILITY STITCHES f buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on Position the fabric with the front end of the i remove the fabric, and cut the thread. j position. Raise the needle and the presser foot lever, the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then lower the presser foot lever. Raise the buttonhole lever to its original 1 k stitching to prevent the stitching from being cut, Insert a pin at the end of the buttonhole 2 A and then use a seam ripper to cut towards the pin and open the buttonhole. 2 a Mark on fabric b Red marks on buttonhole foot • When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct size. a Seam ripper b Pin For keyhole buttonholes, use a commercial eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut open the buttonhole. a Do not reduce the gap. g possible. Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as a Eyelet punch • When using the eyelet punch, place thick paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric. a Buttonhole lever b Bracket The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot. Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your h left hand, and then start sewing. ● When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting path, otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips. Do not use the seam ripper in any other way than how it is intended. CAUTION Memo ● Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch length and width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric. Note ● If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does not feed, sew with the coarser (longer) stitch.  Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops. 34 ■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a gimp thread. Hook the gimp thread onto the part of a buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration so that it fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it. Button sewing Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached. a Measure the distance between the holes. b feed dog position lever to Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the . 3 b c Attach buttonhole foot “A”. Select a stitch or . a Feed dog position lever d gimp thread. Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the Lower the presser foot lever and the buttonhole When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp e lever, and then start sewing. [. . . ] 34 sewing machine needles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 sewing speed controller. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6, 9 sewing the character stitches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 sleeve holes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 smocking. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [. . . ]